Tahiti

Tahiti

28 January 2012   Moorea-Tahiti
                                                  We were up early for the bus with lots of goodbyes from Haari and his wife. It has been a lovely stay, just what you imagine a South Sea Island to be like.We breakfasted at the ferry terminal and soaked up the increasing level of bustle and noise. The crossing on the fast cat was lovely, and the mountains of Tahiti were cloud free for the 1st time since I arrived nearly a month ago.

Looking back to Moorea

The pick-up from the car hire was waiting for us and we were soon off looking for Pension Hiti Moana in Papara. -It is a nice series of studios and bugalows around a garden with pools of goldfish and terrapins. And it has a swimming pontoon extending over the lagoon.

 We shopped for the evening and then went off to explore the South coast. We stopped to investigate the springs at Bain de Viama but it was so crowded that we left rather than fight for a spot. Just along the road we came to the Jardain de Vaipahi, which is a wonderful botanical garden designed around a waterfall which in Tahitian belief is the 1st stage on a spirits' journey to heaven/valhalla/paradise. The legend was similar in idea to Catholic purgatory, Greek Styx, and Protestant redemption all rolled into one. The walks and viewpoints and flowers were just lovely, and if one does have to be 'tested' after death then this is as good a place to do it as any I can think of.

Ann considering the ascent to heaven

 We then went to find the Gaugin Museum but it was very close to closing so we moved on to Tautira which Robert Louis Stevenson described as Paradise. We thought it nice, but not in the paradise league.

Tautira looking to the interior of Tahiti Iti

29 January 2012 Tahiti
                                   It was Sunday so time for Ann's church. I dropped her off at 0915 and was told ' It will all be over by 1015'. So off I went to explore the valley inland from Papara. The road quickly turned into a track and then crossed a river at a ford. I left the hire car, forded the river and started to walk. The waterfall I had seen from the road turned into at least 3 falls streaming down a green cliff at least 1000ft high. The track kept crisscrossing the the river, and at one such ford I met a Tahitian family who were keen for me to accompany them up the valley. However it was a furthar 2 hrs to the falls and I needed to get back to Ann so I declined their offer. In the event the service lasted until nearly 1100hrs so I need not have hurried back.
The Gaugin Museum was interesting, such a confused and tortured man, and it was nicely done in spite of the rather sniffy write-up in the guide book.

Part of the Gaugin Museum

  From here we drove to the North coast, picnic'd in the rain and then visited Three Cascades, the blowhole and Point Venus.

The lighthouse at Point Venus

I have no idea how we got the last picture as the surfers were out in force and Point Venus was just a madhouse of jostling crowds. We headed for home and a swim in the lagoon.

30 January 2012  Tahiti
                                   I thought that Ann would like to see the Fautuna Falls behind Papette which so impressed me earlier. We were away quite early and I remembered the way to Titioro. The weather was much as it was on my last visit and we were soaked several times on the walk in and up. We were only going to go to the pools at the head of the falls to shorten the day, after all it is a holiday.

A breather and chance to drip dry on the way up

In the event I think the descent down the rope frightened Ann and the blackness of the pools, the coolness of the water and the knowledge of the 600ft drop at the end did little to reassure her. So the outing was not all I had hoped it would be.

 We ate our lunch and climbed back up the fixed rope with no problems and were back in the car tired and wet but no worse for wear by mid-afternoon.

31 January 2012 Tahiti
                                  We woke to steady and often heavy rain so decided to spend the day in Papette. The wiper blades on the car were 'shot' and the journey in was fraught. We left the car with Avis and headed into town. We wandered around the market which is colourful with fruit and veg, curios and pareos of every design and hue.

Dodging the rain in Papete Market

During the interval between the showers we walked along the front and into the Gardens of Paofai which are beautifully constructed and cared for. A visit to the Catholic Cathedral(surprise) and lunch. and then head for home. On the way back we stopped to nosey around the big marina and look at the boats anchored off (surprise, surprise).

Moorea

Moorea
           
23 January 2012   Bora-Bora - Moorea.
                                                             Another lovely breakfast, and settled the bill (ouch!), and waited for the bus. We were just about to board when the receptionist came running with my passport.Must be my lucky day. Then to Viatepe for the ferry to the airport and eventually away to Tahiti with great views of Tahaa and Huahine.

Bora Bora Airport

Huahine

A windy crossing to Moorea

At Tahiti we took a taxi to the ferry and caught the fast Cat just as it was leaving. The ferry was packed and we think they were all from a big cruise ship moored in Tahiti. In Moorea the bus driver recognised me from a couple of weeks ago  and said 'Fare Aute?'  when I proffered our fares, it is where we are staying for our time on Moorea. We booked in at Fare Aute and the bungalow is lovely, set in a garden 20 paces from the beach.

We hired a scooter and went to the local supermarket for the makings of supper. We then paddled out across the lagoon to the reef to watch the Pacific swell crashing in. And very impressive it was too.
And that was the end of another day!

24 January 2012  Moorea
                                         The pension provided breakfast today, and it was very substantial. It stood us in good stead for most of the day. I took Ann round the island so that she could see what there was and maybe we will go back later to spend more time at whatever takes her fancy. We helmeted -up and set out on our trusty scooter.

Boy Racer!

First stop was Tiki Village, a theme park/tourist trap /authentic polynesian crafts. There were lots of pareos and nicknacksbut little to interest me other than a friendly little cat.

Tiki Village

And the little cat

Then it was on to the Agricultural College in the Opunoho Valley for their DIY tour and chilled fruit juice at the end.

Just rewards for a hot tour

Then up to the Belvedere dodging the seried ranks of cruise ship habituees for lunch with a view and the feral chickens for company. The wild/escaped chickens are all over the forest, and thriving.

Ann at the Belvedere

We admired the views and then walked down through the forest to the Archer's Marae, and I returned to collect the scooter. By then we needed a swim so headed for the beach where Nitidus had been anchored-off. It looked a whole lot better in sunshine!

A Mape tree in the forest

Opunoho beach

Then it was on to Cooks Bay and Viare, supermarket, supper and bed.

25 January 2012   Moorea
                                           I was out at 0700hrs for bread and returned to a leisurely breakfast. Then it was off to look for the Afarietu waterfall behind Ah Sing's store. It was a nice walk in, not long or steep but and interesting wind through the forest to end at a steep, black, triangular cliff with a gentle cascade of water running into a pool at it's base.

 I have actually climbed wetter rocks in Wales and Scotland but nothing as warm and relaxing as this. I am sure that much of the water which sets off from the top evaporates on the way down and that which arrives as a liquid has been thoroughly warmed by the black rock. We chatted to a French girl and a chap from Chicago who was recovering from 'burn-out'(2wks holiday in 6yrs!). After a while they left and we sat in the quiet with the cool draughts from the falls spilling over us and noticed that the pool was teeming with life. There were little fishes, freshwater prawns and lots of eels, some of them up to 1m long. Braving the eels we swam over to the base of the waterfall and were haloed in rainbows. After a long time we walked out and took the scooter to Viare Marina to have a nosey at the boats, but there was not much there to excite us. Ann was getting tired and hot so we went back to the bungalow for lunch.
In the afternoon we took the outrigger canoe onto the lagoon for a swim. Once we got the paddling technique right it was easy to control and much more comfortable than the kayak we used yesterday, but you didn't need to be in a hurry! But then this is Polynesia!

And that was the end of another lovely day.

26 January 2012   Moorea
                                        Yesterday was so successful that we decided on a repeat performance, except that we would choose a different waterfall. The one chosen was behind the Health Centre. It took about 3/4 hour to walk in. Again it was very pleasant with lots of shade and side trips to downstream pools and cataracts. The fall itself was similar to yesterday with slightly more water and a deeper pool. Again we lazed and swam, and lazed some more.

A pool on the walk in

In the afternoon we took the outrigger out to the reef and wandered about looking at fishes and corals sea urchins and waves.

Ann on the reef. the canoe is just to the left of her paddle.

When we left the reef to get back to the bungalow we had a very rapid downwind paddle to the beach. Just when we are getting the hang of things our visit is coming to an end!
 Tomorrow we have arranged to hire a car as we want to see the 'show' at Tiki Village which doesn't finish until late and scootering back at midnight is not for me. I must be getting old.

27 January 2012 Moorea.
                                        I did the last scoot for bread and then swapped it for a Fiat Panda.In this we pottered off on another circumnavigation of the island with numerous stops.Ann went looking for a jeweller and we ended up way out on the coast at a very arty crafty place tucked away in a coconut grove. Very expensive so no deals were done!

The view over the lagoon from close to Viare with Tahiti in the background

 We also shopped for bikinis (unsuccessful), post cards (success), pareo (success), and supper (success). We headed back to Opunoho beach which is beautiful but after about an hour it started to rain and threatened more so we headed back to the lodgings to lounge in the water and sun which had remained shining on our side of the island.

Ann is energetic

Moorea is a very laid back place and our stay here has been lovely.
 Tonight is the Tahitian Extravaganza, and then up with the lark to catch the early bus for the ferry.

Do I need a caption?

Bora Bora

21 January 2012   Bora Bora.
                                             Yesterday I had packed so it was just a matter of breakfast and away. There were lots of farewells and good wishes for the future. They all say they will come to Spain but I have my doubts, I think the backwoods of Ontario and Ukraine will have more immediate and insistent demands, but it would be nice if they managed it. Kosta and I were away in the dinghy at about 0800 hrs and on the dock at Viatape about 30 mins later. When I switched on my phone I found that Ann was on an earlier flight so it was a good job we were 'early'.

 Kosta departed with beer and fags for Sergiy and shortly after the catamaran ferry brought Ann from the airport. Our RV in mid-Pacific had worked!
 It was great to see her. We took a taxi/bus to the pension which was right at the end of Matira  Point. We have view out over the lagoon and step out onto a little beach.

Our pension 'Robet y Tina'  at Matira Point

The view across the lagoon to the reef from our terrace

About 1/2 mile away across the lagoon the surf explodes over the reef, and at 20 miles we have views of Riatea and Tahaa to break up the horizon. It is beautiful. The pension is not 5* but it is comfortable and just right

Local fishing boats and an hotel of over water bugalows

For the rest of the day we just wandered in the area, had lunch and then spent the afternoon on a public beach lazing and lolling about in the tepid blue water.
Mahi Mahi for supper and then to bed!

22 January 2012   Bora Bora
                                            We had a lovely breakfast on the terrace overlooking the lagoon.

We then joined a boat tour of the lagoon organised by the 'hotel'. The boat was moored about 20m from our room  so there was no hassle about transfer or pick-up. The 'Captain' was called Natura or Alfonso or ...... and he sang, drove the boat, played his ukelele, extolled the beauty of Polynesia in general and Bora Bora in particular, and declaimed the dastardly French. He was a good chap doing his best. Anyway off we went to the Hotel International to collect 4 Indians who were on a joint honeymoon and who were sharing the boat.

Natura

The first stop on the tour was 'Feeding the Sharks', and much was made of the impermeability of the floating line that the sharks would not cross. We arrived at the point just as a couple of other chaps were laying out 'the line'. The sharks were Black Tip Reef Sharks about 1.5-2m in length and a beautiful sandy colour.

They ate their fish with gusto and totally ignored the line! They were however more worried about us than we were about them and swimming with them was both a thrill and a wonder.

Note the sharks on both sides of the line!

The Indians were very loathe to enter the water but came in when they saw Ann and I in there with no obvious blood in the water. There were also Remoras and Rays and a variety of reef fish snacking on the leftovers and on the weed growing on the line.
  We then went to a coral garden in quite deep water to snorkel. The coral and fishes were good but not in the same league as the Pass at Riatea.
  Next stop was 'Feeding the Rays' where I had been a couple of days ago. On the way there we passed where Nitidus was anchored so we went over to say 'Hello' and everyone got to have a look over the boat. The Indians were suitably impressed and Ann now knows what the boat is like first-hand. And it was nice to see Kosta, Genady and Sergiy again. I think they were afraid I was coming back!!

 The Rays came and nuzzled us. They were about 1.5m in wingspan and felt like satin to touch. They were lovely and gentle and unafraid as long as there were no rapid movement. They came to nudge us for food and suck us  to attract our attention. Natura said that they had all been de-stinged and were friends of his family!

 We then did a circuit of the island in a rain storm,which was surprisingly cold, and back to a motu for lunch. The Indians were on a 1/2 day and returned to their hotel. Ann and I had a lovely lunch looking out over the lagoon to the main island.  We subsequently sauntered to the viewpoint at the top of the motu which had spectacular vistas. It was provided with shady loungers which we made good use of.

There was then a demo of what to do with every part of a coconut, which was surprisingly interesting and informative, another snorkel over more coral and back to the 'hotel'. A lovely day and a great way to end our time on Bora Bora.