Monday 2 July 2012

New Zealand

New Zealand


1/2 February 2012  Tahiti-Auckland
                                                      We were up with, or even before, the larks to catch the flight to Auckland.It was a painless journey and we were on the ground by just after lunch but it was 2 Feb as we skipped a day crossing the IDL. Immigration and Customs took an age as the Kiwis are very strict about deliberate or inadvertant introduction of alien species into their country. Our walk in the forest at Papette sparked a flurry of searching and boot cleaning. It was tedious but I have more sympathy with the objectives than I do with the confiscation of nail files from old ladies in the name of security which is what happens in UK and US. The car hire was a bit off-beat, we booked it over the internet, and we ended up with a old but comfortable Mazda with paintwork well past it's prime which suited us perfectly. We found the hotel which Alex had booked for us and gave her a ring. Alex is the Grand daughter of Pirko Ham who I have known since 1964, when I was a young 2 Lt and she was married to Sid our Tech QM, and when she heard that Ann and I were going to New Zealand she suggested that we meet with Alex her granddaughter who stayed on after her mother and stepfather returned to England. I had not seen Alex since she was 3 and then only for about 30 mins so it was an unusual meeting for all concerned.
 The whole family, Alex, husband Glen and daughters Anastasia and Trinity came round to the hotel for about an hour and they were lovely.
Glen took the girls home and Alex took Ann and myself to a choir rehersal at her Destiny Church. Which is an evangelical social group with lots of enthusiasm and modern music. Not my scene at all, but the schools have a great record of getting bursaries to university for kids who would otherwise be unlikely to get that far in education, and even non believer me was made very welcome. The church and music obviously play a very large part in Alex and Glen's life. If you would like to here more of their music try googling 'Freeday'.

3 February 2012   Auckland
                                            We decided to go into the city centre by train to avoid parking and navigational problems.However we had problems at the station and in the event it would have been easier, faster and cheaper to  have just driven, but Hey ho. The train ended us up on the waterfront so we wandered along looking at some amazing boats and buildings and getting the swing of western style traffic again after laid back Polynesia. We had a trip through the Maritime Museum and took a ferry across the harbour to Devonport, appropriately enough the home of the NZ Navy. The town was delightful and had a certain Victorian charm after the bustle and skyscrapers of downtown Auckland. We climbed a hill on the advice of a chap we met on the ferry, and it was well worth the hike. It was a 360 degree panorama of inlets and islands, peninsulars and bays, ports and cities and countryside. A great lookout even on a grey day.
A view from Mt Victoria
And then we had lunch in the Sierra Cafe to remind us of our mountains at home and our granddaughter in England.
In the evening Alex and Glen came round and we all went for dinner in the revolving resturant at the top of the tower in Auckand. Nice meal, lovely evening.

4 February 2012  Auckland - Hamilton
                                                           Alex and Glen said that they were taking the children for a walk the following morning and would we like to join them. Yes we would. So I dug out my disinfected walking boots and off we went. It was only a short walk up one of the remnants of volcanoes which pepper Auckland. It was a nice stroll and a pleasant way to say adieu to the family.
Then Ann and I were off heading South, once we got the hang of the road signs. We headed for Raglan and Kawhia along country roads. It was like driving through an under populated Wiltshire with the odd burst of exotic vegetation. The road sides were covered in yellow daisies, the banks were in the blue and white of agapanthus and there were drifts of orange montbretia everywhere. When you added tree ferns to the mixture it was a very pretty drive.

 We stopped at Bridal Veil Falls, a 55m single drop, not in the Papette league but it was a nice break and was well done as a tourist attraction.
As it is a holiday w/e  all the places on the coast were booked solid. It was fortuitous really as when we finally got to Kawhia, where we intended to stay, there was a very noisy festival in full swing so we were well out of it! The inlets on the Tasman Sea side are like stretched versions of the S Devon rias with acres of sand and mud at low tide and picturesque headlands and points at high water. We headed back to Hamilton to find a motel in which we had great success, and church for Ann which was not so successful.

5 February  2012   Hamiliton Area
                                                    After church for Ann we walked around a lake in Hamilton. I admired the contestants in a beach volley ball contest. and then we went off to Lake Karapiro for lunch.
When we arrived at the dam there were numerous other families picnicing and watching speed boat racing. We joined them but were very little wiser about the racing which was very noisy and, I thought, distinctly unexciting. We left after about an hour and went to the Maungatauri Kiwi Reserve. This has been created out of a range of hills which has been surrounded by a 'pest-proof' 2.5m high chain link and electrified fences with deadlock entrances. All this in attempt to preserve some native habitat. The farm land runs right up to the edge of the reserve, with cow pasture, an enormous fence and then an abrupt transition to fern forest. It is a very strange even a weird sight more Stalagluft than nature reserve. The walk around the reserve was pleasant but uninformative and needless to say we saw no Kiwis as they are nocturnal.
 There are '000s of cows, lots of milk tankers, but so far we have seen nothing that looks like a milking parlour. They must hide them away!

6 February 2012 Rotorua
                                       After a potential disaster when the credit card was refused we eventually got it sorted, paid and left. The Anglesea Motel was a great place to stay nice helpful people, good facilities and reasonable prices. The drive to Rotorua was pleasant but unspectacular. At Rotorua the smell of H2S in the air was unmistakeable and sometimes powerfully unplesant. We booked into a lakeside motel and went in search of entertainment. We took the cable car part of the way up Mt Ngongotaha, watched various groups being launched in a gigantic swing with lots of screams and yells, and we had a go on the luge carts which was good fun.
 Back at the motel we saw that there was a thermal area only 500m from the motel so we spent the rest of the day looking at steaming pools and popping mud pots.
 

7 February 2012  Rotorua
                                        We still had not seen a geyser in operation so we went to the Wei-o-Tapa thermal park to watch one that spouts to order! The guide dropped some detergent into a fumarole and after about 2 mins the geyser erupted and ran for about 45mins with pulses of spray 4-10 m in height. the detergent breaks down a surface layer between water at 90 and water at 150 which results in instant boiling and steam. It was a good show and we have seen our geyser- Lady Knox.
After the geyser show we walked through the thermal  area with it's boiling pools and rocks and water coloured red and yellow and orange and green, indeed a veritable coat of many colours.

By now we were just about 'thermalled' out so we headed back to Rotorua by way of some normal lakes set in beautiful wooded country. There was time for a walk and a swim at Blue Lake and then back to the motel.

8 February 2012  Rotorua - Whangamatta.
                                                                We headed out for Mattamatta and the Hobbiton set for 'Lord of the Rings'. It wasn't my idea of a must do but was on Ann's bucket list so off we went. I think you have to be a Tolkein fan to either love it or hate it, and I am not a fan so felt neither. The set was inventive and much as I would have expected. It must make the owners of the land a fortune, much more money and less hassle in punters than sheep!
After Hobbiton we headed North for the Pacific coast and the Coromandel Peninsular. I wanted to go there because the name has such an exotic ring to it. At first I was disappointed as the towns and countryside were very similar to what we had seen before, pleasing, manicured, but nothing different. Then at about 5 o'clock it was time to look for a room and we drove into Whangamatta. The town was much as before, but the setting was just wonderful. Whangamatta sits behind a long sandy beach which looks out to off shore islands, and is bounded on either side by deep protected estuaries with moorings and anchorages aplenty.  The estuaries run back into steeply wooded hills. It really was a lovely spot and I wished we could have stayed longer but there is a plane to catch.





9 February 2012    Whangamatta - Coromandel
                                                                         We left Whangamatta with a few regrets at such a short stay and headed up the coast to Hahai and Cathedral Cove. The coast road on the East side of the peninsular is nothing of the sort and views of the sea were few and far between. We waited to get into Hahai whilst a tree was cleared, and the parking at Cathedral cove was manic, so hopes were not high. However the walk along the cliff and the cove itself were just lovely and well worth the effort.
We swam and lazed in the sun, walked back up the cliff and lunched on the grass with lovely views of the coast and cliffs and islands, green in a blue sea.
  From then on we bounced from country to coast, hills to estuaries all the way up to Coromandel Town. It is a quirky tourist place which sits in the corner of a wide bay bounded by a peninsular and a string of stunning islands. We found a smart motel and wandered out to look at the boats moored along the river and found them all parked in the mangrove fringes.
Dinner was Green lipped mussels, to be repeated, and stone cooked main course, not to be repeated!

10 February 2012   Coromandel - Auckland
                                                                   There seemed to be a lot to do around  Coromandel but again time was pressing so we went over the hill to fantastic views of the Firth of Thames. The road dropped to sea level and followed the sea all the way to Thames, a moderately large town at the head of this enormous gulf. We had a look around and then moved on. We ate our lunch at the shore birds centre, didn't see many birds there but that was rectified shortly afterwards when we saw thousands of birds on the sand and mudflatsof the western shore. We also stopped for a walk along the beach at Orere Point, and then headed for our airport motel.

  We had arranged to meet Alex and family at Bucklands Beach so Ann dived into Googlemaps and came up with the goods, and we got there in good time. We were  greeted by the children like long lost uncles/aunts and warmly by Alex and Glen. Ice creams all round and a chilly walk back to the car and our time in NZ was drawing to a close. They escorted us back to our hotel which was nice. They are a lovely family and I hope we can stay in touch.

Saturday 30 June 2012

Tahiti

Tahiti

28 January 2012   Moorea-Tahiti
                                                  We were up early for the bus with lots of goodbyes from Haari and his wife. It has been a lovely stay, just what you imagine a South Sea Island to be like.We breakfasted at the ferry terminal and soaked up the increasing level of bustle and noise. The crossing on the fast cat was lovely, and the mountains of Tahiti were cloud free for the 1st time since I arrived nearly a month ago.
Looking back to Moorea
The pick-up from the car hire was waiting for us and we were soon off looking for Pension Hiti Moana in Papara. -It is a nice series of studios and bugalows around a garden with pools of goldfish and terrapins. And it has a swimming pontoon extending over the lagoon.
 We shopped for the evening and then went off to explore the South coast. We stopped to investigate the springs at Bain de Viama but it was so crowded that we left rather than fight for a spot. Just along the road we came to the Jardain de Vaipahi, which is a wonderful botanical garden designed around a waterfall which in Tahitian belief is the 1st stage on a spirits' journey to heaven/valhalla/paradise. The legend was similar in idea to Catholic purgatory, Greek Styx, and Protestant redemption all rolled into one. The walks and viewpoints and flowers were just lovely, and if one does have to be 'tested' after death then this is as good a place to do it as any I can think of.
Ann considering the ascent to heaven
 We then went to find the Gaugin Museum but it was very close to closing so we moved on to Tautira which Robert Louis Stevenson described as Paradise. We thought it nice, but not in the paradise league.
Tautira looking to the interior of Tahiti Iti

29 January 2012 Tahiti
                                   It was Sunday so time for Ann's church. I dropped her off at 0915 and was told ' It will all be over by 1015'. So off I went to explore the valley inland from Papara. The road quickly turned into a track and then crossed a river at a ford. I left the hire car, forded the river and started to walk. The waterfall I had seen from the road turned into at least 3 falls streaming down a green cliff at least 1000ft high. The track kept crisscrossing the the river, and at one such ford I met a Tahitian family who were keen for me to accompany them up the valley. However it was a furthar 2 hrs to the falls and I needed to get back to Ann so I declined their offer. In the event the service lasted until nearly 1100hrs so I need not have hurried back.
The Gaugin Museum was interesting, such a confused and tortured man, and it was nicely done in spite of the rather sniffy write-up in the guide book.
Part of the Gaugin Museum
  From here we drove to the North coast, picnic'd in the rain and then visited Three Cascades, the blowhole and Point Venus.
The lighthouse at Point Venus
I have no idea how we got the last picture as the surfers were out in force and Point Venus was just a madhouse of jostling crowds. We headed for home and a swim in the lagoon.

30 January 2012  Tahiti
                                   I thought that Ann would like to see the Fautuna Falls behind Papette which so impressed me earlier. We were away quite early and I remembered the way to Titioro. The weather was much as it was on my last visit and we were soaked several times on the walk in and up. We were only going to go to the pools at the head of the falls to shorten the day, after all it is a holiday.
A breather and chance to drip dry on the way up

In the event I think the descent down the rope frightened Ann and the blackness of the pools, the coolness of the water and the knowledge of the 600ft drop at the end did little to reassure her. So the outing was not all I had hoped it would be.
 We ate our lunch and climbed back up the fixed rope with no problems and were back in the car tired and wet but no worse for wear by mid-afternoon.

31 January 2012 Tahiti
                                  We woke to steady and often heavy rain so decided to spend the day in Papette. The wiper blades on the car were 'shot' and the journey in was fraught. We left the car with Avis and headed into town. We wandered around the market which is colourful with fruit and veg, curios and pareos of every design and hue.
Dodging the rain in Papete Market
During the interval between the showers we walked along the front and into the Gardens of Paofai which are beautifully constructed and cared for. A visit to the Catholic Cathedral(surprise) and lunch. and then head for home. On the way back we stopped to nosey around the big marina and look at the boats anchored off (surprise, surprise).

Tuesday 19 June 2012

Moorea

Moorea
           
23 January 2012   Bora-Bora - Moorea.
                                                             Another lovely breakfast, and settled the bill (ouch!), and waited for the bus. We were just about to board when the receptionist came running with my passport.Must be my lucky day. Then to Viatepe for the ferry to the airport and eventually away to Tahiti with great views of Tahaa and Huahine.
Bora Bora Airport

Huahine
A windy crossing to Moorea
At Tahiti we took a taxi to the ferry and caught the fast Cat just as it was leaving. The ferry was packed and we think they were all from a big cruise ship moored in Tahiti. In Moorea the bus driver recognised me from a couple of weeks ago  and said 'Fare Aute?'  when I proffered our fares, it is where we are staying for our time on Moorea. We booked in at Fare Aute and the bungalow is lovely, set in a garden 20 paces from the beach.
We hired a scooter and went to the local supermarket for the makings of supper. We then paddled out across the lagoon to the reef to watch the Pacific swell crashing in. And very impressive it was too.
And that was the end of another day!

24 January 2012  Moorea
                                         The pension provided breakfast today, and it was very substantial. It stood us in good stead for most of the day. I took Ann round the island so that she could see what there was and maybe we will go back later to spend more time at whatever takes her fancy. We helmeted -up and set out on our trusty scooter.
Boy Racer!
First stop was Tiki Village, a theme park/tourist trap /authentic polynesian crafts. There were lots of pareos and nicknacksbut little to interest me other than a friendly little cat.
Tiki Village
And the little cat
Then it was on to the Agricultural College in the Opunoho Valley for their DIY tour and chilled fruit juice at the end.
Just rewards for a hot tour
Then up to the Belvedere dodging the seried ranks of cruise ship habituees for lunch with a view and the feral chickens for company. The wild/escaped chickens are all over the forest, and thriving.
Ann at the Belvedere
We admired the views and then walked down through the forest to the Archer's Marae, and I returned to collect the scooter. By then we needed a swim so headed for the beach where Nitidus had been anchored-off. It looked a whole lot better in sunshine!
A Mape tree in the forest
Opunoho beach
Then it was on to Cooks Bay and Viare, supermarket, supper and bed.

25 January 2012   Moorea
                                           I was out at 0700hrs for bread and returned to a leisurely breakfast. Then it was off to look for the Afarietu waterfall behind Ah Sing's store. It was a nice walk in, not long or steep but and interesting wind through the forest to end at a steep, black, triangular cliff with a gentle cascade of water running into a pool at it's base.
 I have actually climbed wetter rocks in Wales and Scotland but nothing as warm and relaxing as this. I am sure that much of the water which sets off from the top evaporates on the way down and that which arrives as a liquid has been thoroughly warmed by the black rock. We chatted to a French girl and a chap from Chicago who was recovering from 'burn-out'(2wks holiday in 6yrs!). After a while they left and we sat in the quiet with the cool draughts from the falls spilling over us and noticed that the pool was teeming with life. There were little fishes, freshwater prawns and lots of eels, some of them up to 1m long. Braving the eels we swam over to the base of the waterfall and were haloed in rainbows. After a long time we walked out and took the scooter to Viare Marina to have a nosey at the boats, but there was not much there to excite us. Ann was getting tired and hot so we went back to the bungalow for lunch.
In the afternoon we took the outrigger canoe onto the lagoon for a swim. Once we got the paddling technique right it was easy to control and much more comfortable than the kayak we used yesterday, but you didn't need to be in a hurry! But then this is Polynesia!
And that was the end of another lovely day.

26 January 2012   Moorea
                                        Yesterday was so successful that we decided on a repeat performance, except that we would choose a different waterfall. The one chosen was behind the Health Centre. It took about 3/4 hour to walk in. Again it was very pleasant with lots of shade and side trips to downstream pools and cataracts. The fall itself was similar to yesterday with slightly more water and a deeper pool. Again we lazed and swam, and lazed some more.
A pool on the walk in
In the afternoon we took the outrigger out to the reef and wandered about looking at fishes and corals sea urchins and waves.
Ann on the reef. the canoe is just to the left of her paddle.
When we left the reef to get back to the bungalow we had a very rapid downwind paddle to the beach. Just when we are getting the hang of things our visit is coming to an end!
 Tomorrow we have arranged to hire a car as we want to see the 'show' at Tiki Village which doesn't finish until late and scootering back at midnight is not for me. I must be getting old.

27 January 2012 Moorea.
                                        I did the last scoot for bread and then swapped it for a Fiat Panda.In this we pottered off on another circumnavigation of the island with numerous stops.Ann went looking for a jeweller and we ended up way out on the coast at a very arty crafty place tucked away in a coconut grove. Very expensive so no deals were done!
The view over the lagoon from close to Viare with Tahiti in the background
 We also shopped for bikinis (unsuccessful), post cards (success), pareo (success), and supper (success). We headed back to Opunoho beach which is beautiful but after about an hour it started to rain and threatened more so we headed back to the lodgings to lounge in the water and sun which had remained shining on our side of the island.
Ann is energetic
Moorea is a very laid back place and our stay here has been lovely.
 Tonight is the Tahitian Extravaganza, and then up with the lark to catch the early bus for the ferry.
Do I need a caption?